Hooray for Huckleberries

Native to the northern Rockies, these berries make almost any dish better. Taste for yourself.

// By Samantha Simma

Although Jackson Hole is better suited to supporting the growth of wildflowers and sagebrush than produce, huckleberries burst from dense bushes throughout the region in late summer. These small, tangy berries, which have resisted all efforts at cultivation, make an appearance in a variety of dishes and drinks around the valley. Their versatility lies in their ability to complement rich, bold flavors and also add a touch of tart sweetness. With their deep blue—practically purple—hue, huckleberries are an iconic, wild taste of the Rocky Mountains. Here are some local presentations, both savory and sweet.

At Hatch Taqueria & Tequilas, the gluten-free blue corn banana pancakes offer an earthiness that’s countered by a bright burst of flavor from a huckleberry compote topping. The house-made blue corn batter—which incorporates cornmeal stone-ground from premium organic blue corn—is a nod to heritage grains and Mexican cuisine. The result is a pancake with a subtly nutty depth and texture that is both tender (in the middle) and slightly crisp (at the edges). On top, fresh bananas lend a mellow sweetness that acts as a counterpoint to a huckleberry compote of slowly simmered Montana and Idaho huckleberries and agave; a drizzle of maple syrup ties the dish together. Open daily 8 a.m.–9 p.m.; 120 W. Broadway Ave.; 307/203-2780, hatchjh.com

About Local Restaurant & Bar’s Huckleberry Old Fashioned, bar manager Matt Howard says, “The huckleberries give the drink a sort of mountain berry sweetness, complementing the classic old fashioned flavors of caramel and vanilla, and give the drink just a little less bite than the classic version.” The focal point of the cocktail is Wyoming Whiskey small batch bourbon, which has been carefully infused with huckleberries so that the bourbon absorbs their natural sweetness. The addition of maple syrup and a splash of orange enhances the huckleberries’ bright, tart undertones, while Angostura bitters provide the drink’s familiar depth and complexity. Open Monday–Saturday 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and 3–9 p.m.; 55 N. Cache; 307/201-1717, localjh.com

“If Jackson Hole was an ice cream, [huckleberry] would be it,” proposes Kendra Alessandro, vice president of marketing and communications at Fine Dining Restaurant Group, the parent of artisan ice cream brand Cream + Sugar. Among the company’s six varieties of miniature ice cream sandwiches, the huckleberry version is an ode to regional flavors. Huckleberries and wild blueberries are blended into sweet cream ice cream, which is then hand-scooped and pressed between two miniature chocolate chip cookies. The result is a texturally pleasant sweet treat, where creamy ice cream complements the chewy cookies. The salty, sweet, and slightly tangy marriage of flavors leaves you wanting more of what many consider the perfect bite. Open daily Monday–Saturday 4–9 p.m. and Sunday 12–9 p.m.; 20 E. Broadway Ave.; 307/739-1058, creamandsugaricecream.com

Jason Azarpour, food and beverage director at The Whistling Grizzly, considers huckleberry gastrique to be the perfect contrast to a seared Rocky Mountain elk tenderloin. The cut of meat is lean yet rich with flavor, and “the sweet, sour, and tartness of the huckleberries brings balance” to the dish, he says. The gastrique is otherwise prepared traditionally—from a reduction of sugar, juice, and vinegar that is then infused with select secret spices. Azarpour says huckleberries were chosen, instead of other berries, not only for their prevalence in the region, but also for “the great contrast in flavor they offer when reduced as a gastrique.” Open daily 7–10 a.m. and 5–9 p.m.; 930 W. Broadway Ave.; 307/699-7227, wyominginn.com

Southern tradition melds with mountain flair in the Mangy Moose’s baby back pork ribs with huckleberry BBQ glaze. Slow-cooked to achieve optimum tenderness, the smoky char of the ribs is complemented by a house-made huckleberry BBQ sauce. “The prevalence of the huckleberry in Jackson Hole combined with the allure of the ingredient to visitors made it an obvious selling point for us,” says marketing coordinator Natalie Johnson. “What better way to add sweetness and complexity to a rich meat such as pork? Adding huckleberries to our sweet southern-style BBQ sauce perfectly complements the notes of vinegar and smoke, as well as the tender meat.” The sauce strikes a harmonious balance between sweet, tangy, and smoky—demonstrating the versatility of huckleberries when added to an otherwise savory dish. Open daily 7 a.m.–9:30 p.m.; 3295 Village Dr., Teton Village; 307/733-4913, mangymoose.com

Encased in golden, flaky puff pastry, the baked brie at Dornan’s Pizza & Pasta Co. is elevated comfort food. And it’s much loved. “The baked brie has been a popular, long-running appetizer on our menu,” says Katherine Zemp, a member of Dornan’s management team. “I think the only thing that has been on the menu longer is the Moose Bread.” The richness of the brie is balanced by a tangy huckleberry jalapeño compote made with Dornan’s own huckleberry jam (which you can buy in the on-site market). Served warm with peppered crackers, the dish is a satisfying interplay of salty and sweet. Open daily 11:30 a.m.–7 p.m.; 12170 Dornans Rd., Moose; 307/733-2415, dornans.com  JH