Holy Centenary

This summer marks the 100th year that the Chapel of the Transfiguration holds Episcopalian services in the shadow of the Tetons.

// By sofia mcgulick

It’s a safe bet that most plans hatched during the cold and wet days of a Wyoming spring are not spiritual in bent. But the April 1925 gathering of Mr. and Mrs. C.B. Voorhis, the Reverend Dr. Royal Balcom, Bishop Thomas, and others at the Voorhis’s cabin was to plan the building of an Episcopal chapel at Menor’s Ferry, a crossing of the Snake River that’s about equidistant from the towns of Jackson and Kelly. The new chapel would save the wealthy families that summered in that area (which is today in Grand Teton National Park) the 50-mile roundtrip to and from the nearest church, St. John’s Episcopal Church, in downtown Jackson, with which Rev. Dr. Balcom and Bishop Thomas were affiliated. And maybe it could also minister to the growing number of dudes at the many guest ranches around Menor’s Ferry. 

Financed by the Voorhises and on one acre of land donated by Maud Nobel, the Chapel of the Transfiguration’s construction began as soon as enough snow melted that year. Rev. Dr. Balcom designed the chapel, basing its design on the then-existing floor plan of St. John’s Church—with which the chapel would be affiliated once completed—and adding a giant plate-glass window behind the altar to frame the tallest and most dramatic peaks of the Teton Range. Timber for the chapel was harvested from nearby Timbered Island. Charles Fox, the primary contractor, had help from George Lamb (read about a barn Lamb built in town on page 90) and a number of other locals. 

The Chapel, with seating for 65 people, held its first service on July 26, 1925. It has been lost to history whether it was Rev. Dr. Balcom or Reverend Perry Herbert Smith—who served as a fighter pilot during World War I (and was one of the few who survived a dog fight with Baron von Richthofen, aka the Red Baron) and had only recently arrived in Jackson Hole—that led the first service. The chapel was Rev. Dr. Balcom’s vision, but Rev. Smith led many of the chapel’s services that summer and also the next.

While the Chapel of the Transfiguration is Episcopal, you don’t have to be Episcopalian to come to a service, we welcome anybody.”

—Haley Ross, communications manager for the Episcopal Church of Jackson Hole

In the 100 years since, the Chapel of the Transfiguration has seen the formation of Grand Teton National Park around it (it is not part of the park, but an inholding owned by the Episcopal Church of Jackson Hole); has been the site of thousands of marriages, baptisms, and memorials; was featured in the Henry Fonda/Maureen O’Hara movie Spencer’s Mountain, which was filmed in Jackson Hole in 1963; and, between Memorial Day and the last weekend of September, has held two services, at 8 a.m. and 10 a.m., every Sunday. In 1995 and 1996, the Clinton family attended services here while on vacation in Jackson Hole. The first year the First Family worshipped at the chapel, then-Reverend Franklin Johnson included “Amazing Grace” in the service because he knew it was a favorite song of the president. At the end of that service, the entire chapel sang “Happy Birthday,” in celebration of the president’s 50th birthday.

While the Chapel of the Transfiguration is Episcopal, “you don’t have to be Episcopalian to come to a service,” says Haley Ross, communications manager for the Episcopal Church of Jackson Hole. “We welcome anybody. The Chapel is such a beautiful space, we encourage everyone to come in.” Although if you come to a service during peak season—mid-July into August—you might find yourself sitting outside because services might have up to 150 worshippers. The chapel can seat only 65 inside in its pews, but with the addition of patio seating on the south side, it can accommodate more visitors. To visit the Chapel of the Transfiguration, enter Grand Teton National Park (fee required) at its Moose Entrance and then drive the Teton Park Road for about one-quarter of a mile before turning right (follow signs for the chapel and Menor’s Ferry).

Be part of the birthday party

The Episcopal Church of Jackson Hole is planning an entire weekend of celebratory events—July 24 through 27—around the Chapel of the Transfiguration’s 100th anniversary. “The Chapel is such an important part of the community and has such a reach across the globe, we wanted multiple events that offer folks a chance to celebrate the chapel and get some of the nostalgia that you do when you’re there,” Ross says. Events are for both the public and parishioners and are at the St. John’s Campus in downtown Jackson and on-site at the Chapel. History buffs should try to make it to the July 24 panel discussion about the chapel’s history. At the Jackson Hole History Museum, which is two blocks east of the Town Square, this is part of History Jackson Hole’s always-interesting Beers & Banter series. One panel member will share some of her childhood memories from being at the Chapel more than 50 years ago. Because July 26 falls on a Saturday this summer—a day on which there are no services—the actual gathering of the public to celebrate the Chapel’s 100th birthday will be 11a.m.–1p.m. following its regular Sunday services on July 27.  JH