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Blast From the Past: The Virginian Lodge

PHOTO BY KATHRYN ZIESIG // by Samantha Simma “When you call me that, smile!” adorned the front desk of the Virginian Lodge for years. It was an homage to the main protagonist of Owen Wister’s Western novel—and the proceeding television series—The Virginian, for which the hotel was named. It was serendipitous that the wife of the property’s developer and original owner, Glenn Napierskie, was named Virginia. Enthralled by its unparalleled hunting and fishing opportunities, Napierskie began visiting Jackson Hole from his hometown of San Diego, California, in the 1950s. (Two of his trophies—taxidermied big horn sheep—were displayed for years above…

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Hello: Q&A With Reed Finaly

PHOTO BY BRADLY J. BONER The Evolution of a Ski Bum // interview By Maggie Theodora The summer after he graduated with a degree in history from Davidson College, in his home state of North Carolina, Reed Finlay worked on a dude ranch in Montana. At the end of that season, many of his co-workers were moving to Colorado to work at ski areas. “I liked the idea of working at a ski area, but I thought Colorado was too cliché,” Finlay says. “I decided I wanted to go to Wyoming.” Finlay got a job as a liftie working the Apres Vous…

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Enjoy: JH Pantry

Mursell’s Sweet Shop // by samantha simma    // Photography by ryan dorgan Open 10 a.m.–6 p.m. daily; 125 N. Cache St.; 307/264-1508, Instagram @mursellssweetshop John Frechette and Christian Burch, the co-founders of successful valley shops MADE and Mountain Dandy, never imagined adding a candy store to their portfolio. But when their dying friend Mursell McLaughlin couldn’t find anyone to take over the store she had founded and run for 34 years, Mursell’s Pottery and Chocolate, the pair asked if they could. (Mursell’s is across Gaslight Alley from MADE.) It turns out that was what McLaughlin had wanted all along.…

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Taste of Jackson Hole:Pizza on the Deck at Calico

DISHING MAGAZINE // By Melissa Thomasma Sit on the petunia-ringed deck at Calico Bar & Restaurant in the summer with some of its wood-fired pizza, and time slows down. (Although it does not quiet down thanks to the restaurant’s generous lawn where gaggles of kids constantly run and play.) The Italian restaurant has a lovely indoor seating area, but it’s the deck, built in 1971, that is iconic. In non-Covid times it has about two dozen tables, and it is covered by a white awning strung with festive lights. Even on drizzly evenings, it’s a delightful spot.  You can order…

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Art: Indian Arts in the Park

PHOTO BY RYAN DORGAN Grand Teton National Park’s Colter Bay Indian Artist Museum closed a decade ago, but the park still hosts the American Indian Guest Artist Program and displays portions of the museum’s collection at the Colter Bay and Craig Thomas Visitor Centers. // By Dina Mishev There are twenty-four Native American tribes associated with Grand Teton National Park (GTNP), from the Apache Tribe of Oklahoma to the Eastern Shoshone Tribe and the Northern Arapahoe Tribe, both of the Wind River Reservation, Wyoming, and the Shoshone-Bannock Tribes of the Fort Hall Reservation, Idaho. These tribes are tied to the lands…

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Locals: Pete Lawton

PETE LAWTON GREW up ski racing and training on Snow King Mountain. Fast-forward thirtyish years and Lawton is CEO of the Bank of Jackson Hole and skis the King during his lunch hour. “I always have skis in my car,” says Lawton, whose father, a high school principal, was one of the initial investors in Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. After pulling into the parking lot at the base of the Town Hill, he’ll put his ski jacket and pants over his work outfit, which is almost always a suit. “I’ll eat a sack lunch on the chairlift,” he says. Lawton,…

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Over the River and Through the Woods to the Grandmother of Conservation’s House We Go

A short, scenic snowshoe or Nordic ski brings you to the Murie Ranch, a historic crucible of the conservation movement. By Lila Edythe NOT TO BE too woo-woo or anything, but I always feel the Murie Ranch—where Margaret Thomas “Mardy” Murie, often called the “Grandmother of the Conservation Movement,” lived for more than fifty years—before I see it. The ranch has a peacefulness and tranquility that is palpable. “There is a definite magic about the place,” says Dan McILhenny, who has lived in one of the ranch’s rustic cabins for six summers as a volunteer docent. “My wife and I feel it,…

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A Legacy of Adventure

Two hundred years after John Colter was the first white man to see Yellowstone and Jackson Hole, two friends retrace his route, find it’s still full of adventure, and make a movie about it.  By Dina Mishev. /. Images from Colter: A legacy of Adventure ONE OF THE early scouting trips that inspired Wilsonites Sawyer Thomas and Riis Wilbrecht to tackle the adventure that became the twenty-eight-minute film Colter: A Legacy of Adventure was a seven-day winter ski-camping trip in the Beartooth Mountains. “We managed to completely destroy ourselves on it,” Wilbrecht says. Rather than back off though, the pair doubled…

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Snack Time

Fuel your Jackson Hole adventures with these locally made snacks. By Melissa Thomasma  //  Photography by bradly j. boner WE DON’T REALLY do humdrum in Jackson Hole. Our mountains are extraordinary, as is the snow that covers them. Accordingly, our adventures are extraordinary too, which means that when we’re out in the wild, boring snacks simply won’t do. Meet some of the local companies making snacks as exciting as the adventures—from snowmobile rides to hunting for untouched backcountry powder to snowshoeing along the base of the Tetons—they’re meant to fuel. PERSEPHONE BAKERYYour throwback after-school favorite is all grown up. The…

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Live Music

Don’t think that skiing all day means you can’t dance all night. By Samantha Simma MANY NIGHT CAPS in Jackson Hole cater to your sense of sound, with a range of genres presented by local musicians. Whether you’d like to twirl around the Silver Dollar’s downtown dance floor to bluegrass or dance to DJ tunes in Wilson, you can easily find a beat for your feet to follow. And while one of the Jackson music scene’s largest venues recently closed its curtain (RIP Pink Garter Theatre), this nighttime pastime will not go quietly. Times listed below are for when there…

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Rising Dreams

A decade after its founding, Persephone Bakery has its own storefronts and two sister restaurants. BY DINA MISHEV IN 2011, LE Cordon Bleu–trained Kevin Cohane and his wife, Ali, founded Persephone Bakery—named for the Greek goddess of grain. They never imagined where they’d be a decade later: semi-finalists in the Outstanding Pastry Chef category of the 2020 James Beard Foundation Awards with four restaurants around Jackson Hole. “It has been the most wonderful and affirming surprise that the community responded to our little bakery in the way that it did,” Ali Cohane says. Here’s a look at the Cohanes’ three…

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Winter Wonderland

Snowmobiling is an easy way to see winter in Yellowstone. No experience necessary. By Samantha Simma THE EARLY MORNING light crests the eastern tree line in Yellowstone National Park, transforming the snow-covered ground into a sea of sparkles. The park’s main thoroughfare from the south parallels the Lewis River, which seems to keep pace with our snowmobiles. From early November through May, Yellowstone’s roads close to regular traffic with the exception of a road between Mammoth Hot Springs and the community of Cooke City, Montana, just outside of Yellowstone’s northeast entrance. Snow accumulates on the 100-plus miles of closed roads, and, beginning…

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Locals: Sophia Tozzi

“I DEFINITELY SPEND more of my time awake at Snow King than anywhere else,” says seventeen-year-old Sophia Tozzi. “I couldn’t even guess how much time I’ve spent there over the years. So much though.” Tozzi, with the rest of the Jackson Hole Ski & Snowboard Club (JHSSC), spends several hours five days a week between November and April training on Snow King. This year she is a high school senior and one of the top junior ski racers in the Mountain West. Last season was a breakthrough one for her, even though races in late March and April were cancelled…

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Stuck Up

Stickers offer a window into the Jackson Hole community and culture. By JH magazine staff  //  Photography by bradly j. boner “I THINK ONCE someone puts a sticker somewhere, it is just an invitation to put more there,” says graphic designer Walt Gerald, whose stickers celebrating the Teton County Library can be found around the valley (one is shown above). The biggest sticker repository in the valley might be the grain silo at the Snake River Brewery. The brewery has had this silo, which holds 60,000 pounds of Idaho-grown grain and is refilled about once a month, for twenty-six years. But…

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Photo Gallery: The Ghosts of Kelly’s Complicated Past

From flood to fire to condemnation, the attempted erasure of Kelly has been the town’s one constant. Photos and text by Ryan Dorgan IN 1978, DUNCAN Morrow, a National Park Service (NPS) spokesman, told the Jackson Hole News that there were two things giving him headaches. The first was “inholders”—some 32,000 people who owned private real estate within the boundaries of America’s national parks. The second headache Morrow offered up without hesitation: “Kelly, Wyoming.” At that time, Morrow’s two pains went hand-in-hand; the unassuming community of about one hundred people on the Gros Ventre River on Jackson Hole’s eastern flank was the center…

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Ten Best Ways to Make This Your Best Winter Vacation Ever

A decade ago, a winter vacation to Jackson Hole was a ski vacation. Nowadays, skiing is just one activity of many. We’re not saying you need to do all of these in order to have an amazing time here, just that, if you do, you’ll be gifting yourself the winter vacation of a lifetime.  BY Lila Edythe  1. Get Wild with the Locals  It might be the National Elk Refuge, but the 24,700-acre refuge just north of town is home to more than 300 species of animals, including bison, osprey, wolves, sage-grouse, mountain lions, bald eagles, and bighorn sheep. Bighorn…

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Tetonscapes: Going Big

Twenty-five athletes compete for the title of King or Queen of the valley’s most iconic (and terrifying) ski run. By Maggie Theodora CORBET’S COULOIR, A double black diamond run near the top of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR) tram, requires skiers and snowboarders to jump off a vertical cornice at its start. It has long been a test piece among expert and extreme skiers across the country. Skiers come to Jackson specifically to ski Corbet’s—or to stand at the top, decide the drop looks too scary, and back away. In 2018, JHMR made Corbet’s iconic status official when it…

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