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Rock On

In rock climbing, the challenge and joy are in the journey rather than the destination. No experience required. // By Molly Absolon Rock climbing, at its most basic, is ascending cliffs, boulders, or artificial walls using one’s hands and feet. For some people, it doesn’t get much deeper than that, but for others, climbing is an art form, requiring physical strength, gymnastic ability, focus, vision, mental control, problem-solving ability, endurance, and skill. Elite climbers say when everything comes together, climbing is about achieving a state of flow as focused as that of any yogi. “I used to be a marathon runner,”…

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Canoe Camp in Yellowstone

A wooden canoe carries all the creature comforts for a scenic trip on one of YNP’s largest and most remote lakes.  // Photography and story  by Bradly J. Boner On a sunny July morning in Yellowstone National Park, my brother and I wade into chilly waters at the boat launch on the southern end of Lewis Lake. We had loaded three days’ worth of gear and are ready to hop into our intrepid vessel—an old handmade wooden canoe I had patched up and repainted a few years before. We push off and aim the bow at the opposite shoreline. After…

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Ready for the Wild

PHOTO BY BRADLY J. BONER Of course we don’t want to get ill or injured in the backcountry, but sometimes accidents (and blisters) happen.  // By lila Edythe The pain in my left knee came out of nowhere. I  hadn’t twisted my knee or taken a weird step. Jogging down Cascade Canyon in Grand Teton National Park, I tried to ignore it at first. That was only possible for about ten minutes. Then the pain graduated to sharp and stabby, and, if I didn’t step just right, it occasionally took my breath away. There was no way to wrap the Ace…

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Photo Gallery: The Drive Along the Drift

Thousands of Sublette County cattle spend their summer grazing the Upper Green River high country, and cowboys still drive them nearly sixty miles to get there.   // By Mike Koshmrl   // Photography by ryan dorgan It’s 8 a.m. on an early-summer morning, and Albert Sommers and three of his riders are sauntering north, pushing a dozen cows—each with a calf—down Highway 352 pointed toward Green River Lakes. A handful of agile herding dogs bounce around accompanying the cattle-driving cowboys, and they’re doing most of the work. Although it’s still early, the humans, canines, and bovids have been up for…

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Into Yellowstone the Year Before its Founding

SMITHSONIAN AMERICAN ART MUSEUM The 1871 Hayden Expedition’s meticulous and vivid documentation inspired awe, convincing Congress to designate the first national park the following year.    // By Mike Koshmrl   Pronghorn, cutthroat trout, and fresh buttermilk fueled Ferdinand Hayden and his fellow expedition members in the days before they set off to map, measure, paint, and photograph what would soon become Yellowstone National Park.  The mosquitoes were bad in mid-July of 1871, and so the large party of young men that accompanied the forty-one-year-old University of Pennsylvania geology professor “smudged” the swarms of insects by burning bison patties that littered the Gallatin River valley,…

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Overtourism

BRADLY J. BONER Jackson Hole is a gorgeous, unique , and wild place loved by visitors from around the world. Can we keep it from being loved to death? // By Molly Absolon  Loving a place to death has been talked about for decades, but in the past several years, it’s been making front-page news. In 2018, overtourism was one of the Oxford English Dictionary’s Words of the Year. Examples of over-touristed destinations? Venice, Amsterdam, Dubrovnik—and Jackson Hole.  The summer of 2020 brought many of this valley’s overtourism issues into sharp focus. Despite—or perhaps because of—the pandemic, Jackson Hole, the…

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Health: Antidotes to What Jackson Throws at You

PHOTO BY BRADLY J. BONER The elevation and climate that make Jackson Hole a paradise also make it hard on your body. Take care of yourself. // By Melissa Thomasma Dehydration It’s easy to get dehydrated at higher elevations. Drinking alcohol and caffeine can dehydrate you more quickly, as can being active in the mountain sun and wind. Long-distance athlete and Jackson Hole Fire/EMS captain and paramedic Henry Cadwalader says that dehydration is something that he and his team see frequently, especially among visitors. Common signs of dehydration include a headache, lethargy, dizziness, and a dry mouth. “People are very often dehydrated day-to-day,…

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Books: Read These

// BY JIM MAHAFFIE TRUE STORYThe Martyrdom of Collins Catch the Bear Gerry Spence  Collins Catch the Bear was a Lakota Sioux wrongfully charged with the murder of a white man in the Black Hills of South Dakota in 1982. His trial lawyer was the author, a Wyoming native who established a practice in Jackson decades ago and, in 2009, was inducted into the American Trial Lawyers Hall of Fame. THE GUIDEBOOKJackson Hole Hikes: A Guide to Grand Teton National Park, Jedediah Smith, Teton & Gros Ventre Wilderness and Surrounding National Forest Land Rebecca Woods  “This is our go-to guide…

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Food: Foraging the Local Flora

// By Whitney Royster Edible plants and berries abound in Jackson Hole. Not just for animals, but for humans, too. “It’s important to have knowledge of the plant world before anything is eaten,” cautions Cathy Shill, owner of the Hole Hiking Experience. The diets of the Shoshone included the camas flowers of the lily family; the root of the blue camas is high in fiber. Members of the Lewis and Clark Expedition consumed these roots with a poor result, though. “I am verry Sick to day and puke which relive me,” Clark wrote in the fall of 1805, after becoming…

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Anatomy of: Jackson Hole Pathways

// by maggie Theodora // Illustration by elise mahaffie Today the Jackson Hole pathways system includes more than twenty-seven miles of paved shared-use paths and twenty miles of sidewalks. There are also pathways in Grand Teton National Park (GTNP). It is possible for cyclists and pedestrians to get from the east side of the valley to the west side and from downtown Jackson to GTNP while being separated from cars. “Our pathways definitely distinguish us from many other similar mountain communities,” says Katherine Dowson, executive director of the non-profit group Friends of Pathways. This robust pathway system didn’t happen overnight,…

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Local Knowledge: Guillermo Esteves

“I try not to think too much if something has been photographed before. I just want to do a better image than I have before.” // By Sofia McGulick Guillermo Esteves didn’t get into photography until 2012 when he moved to the U.S. (from Venezuela), and he didn’t get into landscape and wildlife photography until he moved to Jackson Hole in 2018. This past spring, one of the twenty-five images he submitted to London’s Natural History Museum’s annual Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition was named one of four finalists—out of 49,000 images—for the People’s Choice Award. Since then, Esteves,…

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Go Deep: Coolers

We tested these so you don’t have to. // by lila edythe ORCA WALKER 20 TOTE What is it? A burly, waterproof, leakproof soft-sided tote cooler with a capacity of 20 liters and 50 pounds. What’s Cool? The Walker Tote is the exact perfect height to accommodate wine bottles. Also, it has a water-resistant dry bag front pocket, an oversize top zipper opening that allows easy access to the tote’s interior, and a removable padded shoulder strap. Not Cool? While this cooler’s construction can handle a 50-pound load, neither the magnetic split handle nor the shoulder strap make carrying that amount…

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Food: Ready to Travel

PHOTO BY BRADLY J. BONER These dishes are made for takeout. // By Samantha Simma Getting food to-go isn’t as simple as picking what sounds best on a restaurant’s menu. A dish that’s delicious if eaten immediately might not be as awesome an hour later after you’ve brought it back to your home, hotel, or campsite. Here are our picks for to-go meals that travel well.  Cafe Genevieve’s Fried Chicken Crispy breading spiced with paprika and cayenne locks in the juiciness of this fresh-as-can-be fried chicken during transport. Brined overnight before being battered and fried to order, this hearty helping…

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Blast From the Past: The Virginian Lodge

PHOTO BY KATHRYN ZIESIG // by Samantha Simma “When you call me that, smile!” adorned the front desk of the Virginian Lodge for years. It was an homage to the main protagonist of Owen Wister’s Western novel—and the proceeding television series—The Virginian, for which the hotel was named. It was serendipitous that the wife of the property’s developer and original owner, Glenn Napierskie, was named Virginia. Enthralled by its unparalleled hunting and fishing opportunities, Napierskie began visiting Jackson Hole from his hometown of San Diego, California, in the 1950s. (Two of his trophies—taxidermied big horn sheep—were displayed for years above…

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Hello: Profile of Lindsay Linton Buk

PHOTO BY DINA MISHEV Introducing the Women of Wyoming to the World.   // By dina mishev What would you do if you had no limits? The great, great-granddaughter of Wyoming homesteaders, photographer Lindsay Linton Buk asked herself that question in 2014 and came up with the idea for Women in Wyoming, a multimedia project featuring portraits, profiles, and interviews of women across the state. Between 2016 and 2018, Buk, who grew up in Powell, photographed and interviewed twenty-two artists, politicians, ranchers, writers, business women, and community stewards like Casper’s Nimi McConigley, the first woman of color to run a…

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Hello: As Told by Hailey Morton Levinson

PHOTO BY RYAN DORGAN Jackson’s mayor, whose full-time job is innkeeper, shares how the latter prepared her for the former, and why she enjoys both. In hospitality you learn how to let other people talk, and you listen to them. You’re often with people who have differing backgrounds and thoughts, and you want to make it so that you don’t have any fights over the breakfast table, especially since I’m one of the breakfast cooks! (Sara Trent and I come up with all the menus and make everything from breakfasts to baked goods.) As an innkeeper, I see myself bringing…

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Hello: Q&A With Reed Finaly

PHOTO BY BRADLY J. BONER The Evolution of a Ski Bum // interview By Maggie Theodora The summer after he graduated with a degree in history from Davidson College, in his home state of North Carolina, Reed Finlay worked on a dude ranch in Montana. At the end of that season, many of his co-workers were moving to Colorado to work at ski areas. “I liked the idea of working at a ski area, but I thought Colorado was too cliché,” Finlay says. “I decided I wanted to go to Wyoming.” Finlay got a job as a liftie working the Apres Vous…

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Jackson Hole Icon: Triangle X

PHOTO BY RYAN DORGAN Triangle X Celebrates Five Generations of Welcoming Guests  // By Jim Mahaffie In 1926, John S. and Maytie Turner bought a 160-acre homestead that included their favorite campsite in the valley, which had sweeping views of the Tetons. They immediately began building the main house, and they greeted their first guests—big game hunters—that fall. Today, the Turner’s Triangle X is the last dude ranch concession still operating in a U.S. national park. (This summer marks its ninety-fifth anniversary.) Despite the ranch’s longevity, the Turner family owned it for only three years. They’ve been leasing it since…

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My Jackson Hole Life: Rocky Vertone (aka DJ VerT-OnE

COURTESY PHOTO // By Maggie Theodora Rocky Vertone didn’t even know where Jackson Hole was, but he knew he needed to head there after he graduated from the Art Institute of Philadelphia in 1991. “This was before the internet, and my buddy had a little Jackson Hole Ski Resort catalog,” he says. “I saw 4,139 vertical feet and a picture of the tram and was like, ‘Oh man, let’s go there.’” That October, Vertone, a native of New Jersey, packed up his Dodge Daytona and made the drive west. Somewhere in Kansas, his fifth gear blew out. “I drove from…

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